Edinburgh is a traveler’s playground. It’s surprisingly compact, easy to navigate, and brimming with more fascinating history and delicious food than you can shake a bagpipe at. Take one turn, and you’re on a cobbled street lined with curious shops and historic pubs. Take another turn, and you’re facing the massive Edinburgh Castle that glowers from its impressive location on the remains of an ancient volcano. Where do you go first? Read on and let me take you through one amazing day in Edinburgh.
Walk through Dean Village
A morning walk through idyllic Dean Village, near the Stockbridge area, is a perfect way to start any day in Edinburgh. I recommend walking down the Water of Leith Walkway, a path that hugs the Water of Leith. The walkway has plenty of signs and is well-maintained and picturesque with flowers (daffodils when I was there) and joggers with cute dogs. Dean Village is ridiculously pretty with old brick buildings, former water mills, and a Greco-Roman style temple called St. Bernard’s Well. Get ready to fill your camera storage!
Give yourself an hour to stroll down the Water of Leith Walkway and emerge onto St. Bernard’s Bridge. Another five-minute walk down the road, and now you’re ready for coffee and breakfast at The Pantry.
- Dean Village
- Dean Path, Edinburgh EH4 3AY, United Kingdom
Breakfast at The Pantry
The Pantry is a cozy eatery right on the corner of the Royal Circus, a circular park with two crescent-shaped townhouse rows on either side. Grab a table in the modern but comfortable interior and bask in the wafts of coffee and bacon-scented air. I had the No Small Fry breakfast (a small full English – £11.50/$13.80) with a Nutella latte (£4.20/$5.04), and my mom and aunt had avocado on sourdough with smoked salmon (£14/$16.80). Everything was fantastic: the food, the coffee, and the service. I wanted to order more (Cinnamon French Toast with rhubarb and clotted cream!), but the small English breakfast was plenty filling.
Tip: If you have to wait for a table, go a couple doors down to the skincare shop, Aesop, and try their fragrant, silky lotions while you wait.
- The Pantry
- 1 N W Circus Pl, Stockbridge, Edinburgh EH3 6ST, United Kingdom
- £10-15/$12-18 for breakfast
Wander down Cockburn Street
Work off breakfast by walking one mile to Cockburn Street, which is considered to be J.K. Rowling’s inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. The walk (or Uber or drive or bus #29) will lead you to Princes St. so you can enjoy a commanding view of Edinburgh Castle and the Princes Street Gardens until you come to the hulking Scott Monument. Turn right after this imposing monument to Sir Walter Scott, cross Waverley Bridge into Old Town, and you’ll be right at the entrance to Cockburn Street. It’s lined with quirky shops, inviting pubs, fun restaurants and an undeniable Harry Potter flare. The gentle slope of Cockburn Street will eventually cause you to spill out directly onto the Royal Mile.
Tip: I enjoyed a gift shop on Cockburn Street called Eden. It had unique gifts with an eco twist.
Promenade down the Royal Mile
The Royal Mile runs like a bent, cobbled spine from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyrood House. Much like Cockburn Street, the Royal Mile is lined with magnificently tall tenements, shops and restaurants, and narrow alleys–called closes–that snake between them. You could spend hours exploring the Royal Mile, but if you don’t have hours, here are a few highlights:
- Grassmarket – This area just off the Royal Mile used to host public executions and markets. The executions have ceased, but the market atmosphere remains. It’s now a funky area with interesting shops, vintage clothes boutiques, bars, live music, comedy clubs, and great restaurants. Grassmarket is located on the opposite side of the Royal Mile from Cockburn Street.
- St. Giles’s Cathedral – This gothic masterpiece founded in 1124 is a remarkable piece of architecture, history, and religion. The deep blue ceiling festooned with gold stars is especially beautiful. Make sure you visit the rear of the church to see the room with the names of those in the Order of the Thistle engraved on the wall. (Free, but donations are encouraged.)
Lunch at Makars Gourmet Mash Bar Company
Are you ready for a sit and snack? At this point during our day, we still haven’t visited Edinburgh Castle, so we’re going to need some sustenance. Makars Gourmet Mash Bar Company is just a few steps off of the Royal Mile on Bank St. The ambience is friendly and energetic, and the food is warm, hearty, and plate-licking good. The boar sausage with bacon and green onion mash (£16/$19.20) paired perfectly together, and the beets over a cheddar onion mash (£15/$18.00) were a symphony of sweet, tart, and creamy. Share these hearty dishes and pair with a pint of local craft beer to prepare yourself to lay siege to Edinburgh Castle.
- Makars Gourmet Mash Bar Company
- 9-12 Bank St, Edinburgh EH1 2LN, United Kingdom
- £15-20/$13.20-24.00 for main dishes
Edinburgh Castle
Warm and satisfied from lunch, march your way back up the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle. The views of Edinburgh from the castle are spectacular, as is the amazing history of this massive fortress. I recommend taking a guided tour as the stories are wild and best heard from a passionate guide. One story mentioned 30 Highlanders that met a drunk castle officer at a pub, coaxed him to reveal a secret entrance to the castle, and used it to actually take over the castle!
The castle complex also has an excellent display of the Crown Jewels of Scotland and the stone of Destiny. Make sure you save plenty of time to see these marvels as the line tends to be long.
Tip: The tours spend a significant amount of time outside. Wear layers, a raincoat, and probably bring an umbrella.
- Edinburgh Castle
- Castlehill, Edinburgh EH1 2NG, United Kingdom
- Tickets: £18-19.50/$21.60-23.40 (winter/summer)
Dinner on Rose Street
Is your head bursting with history? After a short rest, it’s time to get your tummy bursting with Scottish delicacies. Walk out of the castle, down into the Princes Street Gardens, and out into New Town. If you cross Princes Street and go one block, you’ll end up on Rose Street. While seedy in the 19th century, Rose Street became a favorite hangout for Scottish poets in the 50s and 60s. Now, it’s a great place to find a pub, great food, or both.
The Auld Hundred, a pub dating back to 1800, is a funky establishment with live music, great drinks, and even better food. If the ground floor is busy, make your way up the narrow back stairs, past the giant cow wearing a hat, and into a snug dining room that smells like comfort food. I had the Haggis, Neeps, and Tatties (haggis, turnips, and potatoes – £7.50/$9.00) with a warm whiskey sauce and potato and leek soup with homemade brown bread (£5.50/$6.60). WOW. My very first (ever) taste of haggis was better than I had ever expected. The subtle spices, rich flavors, and smooth whiskey sauce were a trio of comforting Scottish hugs.
Tip: Try the fish and chips! The fried haddock was the lightest, crispiest, moistest, most perfect piece of fried fish I’ve ever had the pleasure of stealing off of a family member’s plate.
- The Auld Hundred
- 100 Rose St, Edinburgh EH2 2NN, United Kingdom
- £11-15/$13.20-18.00 for main dishes
Drinks are Dessert
Need something sweet after the savory bomb that was the Auld Hundred? Walk two hundred feet down Rose Street to the Boozy Cow. This noisy, funky, neon-festooned bar makes your night more efficient by combining alcohol and ice cream. We ordered three boozy shakes: cherry amaretto, white Russian, and salted caramel (£7.5/$9.00 each). The shakes were sweet, intoxicating, and the perfect ending to a fantastic day exploring Edinburgh.
Fun fact: In the Boozy Cow’s women’s restroom, there’s a sign on the mirror that says, “Shut up. You look good.” I kind of love that.
- The Boozy Cow
- 17 Frederick St, Edinburgh EH2 2EY, United Kingdom
What would you like to see in Edinburgh? Let us know in the comments down below.
Remember: Life is short, so dig in!